Sewing and embroidering machine.



R. GORNELY. SEWING AND EMBBOIDEBING MACHINE. ArrLIoATIoN FILED JUNI: 21,190s.

1,003,986. Patented Sept.26,1911.

CIJI'IJIIIAl mmh w.. VAIIUNGTGN. D. C.

ROBERT CORNELY, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

SEWING AND EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

.Patented Sept. 26, 19.11.

Application filed .Tune 21, 1909. Serial No. 503,464.

To all whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, ROBERT CoRNnLY, resident of Paris, France, haveinvented new and useful Improvements in Sewing and EmbroideringMachines, which invention is fully set forth in the followingspecification.

The present invention relates to improvements in universal feed sewingor embroidering machines and has for its object to provide such machineswith means whereby the width of the seam as determined by theloscillation of the needle bar and the length of the stitch asdetermined by the feed, are automatically increased or decreasedaccording to the direction of the feed in order to produce imitation ofhand embroidery for embroidering names, monograms or any kind of otherornaments requiring a variable width, as the embroideries done by hand.The accompanying drawings represent an example of a machine constructedfor this purpose, in which the needle produces a sealn of variable widthaccording to the direction of the feed, said feed being under thecontrol of a crank handle as is usual in universal feed sewing orembroidering machines.

In this machine forming the object of the present invention, to thecontrary of universal feed machines, the needle bar does not turn withthe crank handle which governs the direction of the feed, but on thecontrary, said needle bar performs its oscillation always in one and thesame direction, but these oscillations increase or decreaseautomatically according to the direction of the feed. But in order toobtain a perfect work, the crank handle must also control automaticallythe length of the feed, viz. the length of the stitches, so that thestitches become short when the oscillation of the needle is long andwhen the'oscillation of the needle becomes small, so that when theoscillation of the'needle is reduced to zero in order to produce a plainseam, then the length of the stitch must reach its maximum.

Figure 1 is a view in side elevation with certain parts broken awayshowing a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevationalview of the same machine. Figs. `3, l and 5 are diagrammatic views.

Main shaft 1 of the machine is provided with a gear wheel 2 which drivesa gear Wheel 3 of double its size which is secured upon shaft 4. Shaft4t drives a grooved Cam 5 which imparts an oscillating motion to lever 6which swings on its fulcrum 7. This to and fro motion is transmitted bycrank 9 and lever 10 which swings on fulcrum 12, to a rod 11 and finallyto the needle bar 13 which latter needle bar is free to oscillate on itshinge 14. In the drawing, crank 9 represented in its Ymedium position,but its end 8 can move in the slot of lever 6, as the other end of crank9 turns freely upon fulcrum 15 Vwhich secures it to lever 10. Now, whenroller S of crank 9 is at the lowest part of the slot of lever 6, it isclear that the needle bar 13 will perform the maximum of its oscillationand when, on the other hand, roller 8 is at the highest part of the slotof lever 6, which position corresponds with the fulcrlun 7 of lever 6,then the oscillation of the needle will be entirely stopped and themachine will then produce the plain seam only without oscillation. Forrendering the width of this oscillation of the needle automaticallyvariable according to the direction of the crank handle 16 which governsthe direction of the feed, `the turning motion of the crank handle 16 istransmitted by cog wheels 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 andcorresponding intermediate shafts to a grooved cam 26 which lattertherefore turns with the crank handle 16. This cam 26 causes rod 33 tomove up and down and this rod 33 transmits its up and down motion'tocrank 9 and thus displaces roller 8 and thus increases or decreases theoscillation of the needle according to the position of the crank handle16 which governs the direction of the feed. In order to produce a workwhich looks like hand embroidery, the oscillation of the needle mustplace the transverse or cross threads as close as possible together, butwhen said oscillations decrease and come down to a plain seam, then thelength of the stitch must be gradually increased, as otherwise saidstitches would come so close together that the cloth would be cut. Thiswill be made clear by reference to diagrammatic view Fig. 5, wherein itwill be observed that the needle performs its oscillations in adirection across the line of feed A-B. The needle first stitches intothe cloth at a and then, vwhile the feed of the machine moves the clothforward, the needle oscillates to b, where it stitches again into thecloth and thus leaves upon the cloth a transverse or cross-thread a.Then the feed of the machine and the oscillation of the needle continuesimultaneously, transverse or cross-threads ZJ', c, cl, etc., beingplaced on the cloth. Thus the length of the feed must also be variableautomatically according to the width or amplitude of the oscillation andaccording to the direction of the feed. This is obtained by the uppergroove of cam 26 which actuates a lever 27 the opposite end of which isprovided with a set screw 28 which governs the length of the feed in amanner presently to be described. An up and down motion is iniparted toslide 29 in a manner usual in this art and such means is illustrated,for example, in U. S. Patent to Bonnaz No. 83,910 of November 10, 1863.A part only of this mechanism is shown in Fig. 1 and consists of a cam53 on the main shaft 1, a lever 54 operated by said cam the end ofvwhichlever presses on a shoulder 36 projecting from slide 29. This levergives a positive down thrust to the slide and a spring 34 returns theslide to its initial position. Projecting from slide 29 is a bracket 29which supports a sleeve 30 having an inclined groove and slidable ontube 49. As lever 27 which carries said set screw 28 receives an up anddown motion from cam 26 and as said cam 26 turns with the crank handle16, it is clear that according to the position of said crank handle 16,the length of the stitch will be increased or decreased automaticallyand as both cam grooves which produce the variation of the oscillationof the needle and the variation of the length of the stitch are providedon the same cylinder 26, both variations will take place simultaneouslyand automatically at the required moment of change in the direction ofthe feed.

The feed bar 32 which holds the presser foot 38 is suspended at a doublehinge or universal joint 35 47, Fig. 2, which permits said feed bar 32to move in all directions, as hinge 35 is supported by a collar 48 whichis movable upon the central tube 49 of the machine, while the shaft 47of said collar 48 engages in a projection 46 of slide 44 wherein it isalso movable. This slide 44 with spring 45 controls the up and downmotion of the feed bar 32 by means of cam 40 of main shaft 1 of themachine acting through the usual bell crank lever means 41 on aprojection 43 of slide 44.

mounted on pin 51 secured to bracket 52 fast to tube 49. The lower endof lever 31 engages in collar 37 connected with the feed bar 32. Anymovement of the upper part of lever 31 caused by its engagement withsurface 50 causes the lower arm to swing the feed bar 32, the extent ofthis movement depending on the position of the member 30 which isdetermined by the cam 26 through its connecting means therewith. Thearrangement for governing this feed in all directions under the controlof handle 16 is as follows: The bracket 52 which supports the feed lever31 is secured upon the central tube 49 of the machine which latter isfree to turn within brackets 56 and 57 of the front plate 39 and saidtube 49 is governed from the crank handle 16 by means of cog wheels 17,18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 58 and 59 and the intermediate shafts 63, 64 and65, thus the direction of the feed is caused to follow always thedirection of the crank handle 16, which constitutes the well knownuniversal feed motion in all directions.

The up and down motion o-f the needle bar is obtained in the well knownmanner by means of a reciprocating slide 60 engaging a pin 61 of mainshaft 1.

From the foregoing description, it will be understood that the length ofthe feed z'. e. the length of the stitches measured in the direction offeed and the oscillation of the needle bar or the width of the seam asmeas- 'f ured across the direction of feed are auto-- matically variedaccording to the direction of the feed, thereby producing effects inembroidering which are produced by hand.

Fig. 4 lines of embroidery obtained by my improvements corresponding todierent posit-ions of the handle 16; and in order to simplify theexplanation, the circle of revolution of the illustratesdiagrammatically 'the crank handle 16 has been divided in four sectionsonly with the corresponding positions of said crank handle. Vhen, forinstance, the crank handle 16 is moved in the direction of the arrowfrom position d to position a (so that the feed works toward theoperator) then the machine will produce the embroidery seam shownbetween lines and z with the largest4 width and the shortest stitches;when moving the handle further to position b (the machine working towardthe Y d thevmachine working to the right) then the seam shown betweenlines v and will be produced with increasing width of the seam andgradually decreasing of the length of the stitches. It is clear that inthis manner the machine will produce automatically and according to thedirection of the feed broad, fine, increasing and decreasing lines,exactly like a writing pen, thus imitating perfect-ly the embroidery ofmonograms, letters, such as shown in Fig. 3, figures, scallops or anykind of designs as when embroidered by hand.

I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do not confine myself tothe use of the particular mechanisms and devices herein shown anddescribed for accomplishing the several objects in View, as it isevident that their mechanical equivalents may be substituted withoutdeparting from the spirit of my invention. It is also evident that theforces for actuating the devices or mechanisms may be derived from anyother shaft or movingpart of the machine.

What I claim is l. In a sewing or embroidering machine, the combinationof a universal feed mechanism, a needle holder and means oscillating thesame in a fixed plane and automatic means simultaneously controlling theamplitude of the oscillations of said holder inversely as the length offeed according to the direction of said feed.

2. In a sewing or embroidering machine, the combination of a universalfeed mechanism, a needle holder and means oscillating the same, camoperated means for Varying the amplitude of the oscillations of saidholder while inversely varying the length of said feed, and means forsimultaneously changing the direction of said feed and operating saidcam means.

3. In a sewing or embroiderin machine, the combination of a universalfeed mechansm, an oscillating needle holder and means for oscillatingthc same, and aut-omatic means simultaneously controlling the amplitudeof the oscillations of the needle holder and the length of the feedaccording to the direction of said feed.

4. In a sewing or embroidering the' combination of a universal feedmechanism, an oscillating needle holder, and means for oscillating thesame and automatic means simultaneously controlling the amplitude of theoscillations of said needle holder inversely as the length of the feedaccording to the direction of said feed.

5. In a sewing or embroidery machine, the combination of a universalfeed mechanism and hand-operated means for varying the direction of itsfeed, a needle holder and means for oscillating the same, cam-operatedmeans for simultaneously and inversely varying the amplitude of theoscillations of the needle holder and the length of the feed, said cammeans being operated by said hand-operated means.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence 0ftwo subscribing Witnesses.

ROBERT CORNELY.

Witnesses:

EMIL CORNELY, H. C. Coxn.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

machine,

